The North Shore is more about nature than I ever thought it would be. While much of the coastline throughout the state is built up, near Ipswich there is a fair amount of marshland and nature preserves keeping the shoreline pristine.  While these marshy areas also contribute to the dreaded greenhead flies that make their appearance every July-August, they also provide bucolic views throughout the area.

Crane Beach is so beautiful and clear that even the greenheads don’t keep the crowds away. The drive to the beach passes through farms and salt marshes, which gives me time to shift my focus to nature. To access the beach there’s another journey through the dunes and across the wide beach. So, no matter what the temperature is outside, by the time I get to the waterline, I am ready to go swimming. Because the water is almost completely shell and rock free, it’s easy to run into the surf and immerse myself before I even realize how cold it is. And it is cold. However, it is also refreshing, crystal clear, and rejuvenating. All of this is part of Crane Beach’s charm. 

Crane Beach is more about swimming though. There’s a large network of trails through the dunes and forests, past the skeleton of a boat, and through the Crane Estate. 

Castle Hill on the Crane Estate is worth an afternoon in itself. The European inspired summer house spans across 165 acres of landscaped gardens, forested trails, and rolling greens. The first floor of the house is open for visitors to check out with general admission, and the other rooms are available with some of their add on tours. For me, the draw of the estate are the gardens, so I haven’t spent a lot of time in the house.  Just outside the house the great lawn is flanked by a set of roman statues that lead the eye down to the water beyond. This vista reminds me of infinity pools where the lawn seems to go on forever to the horizon line.  Throughout the property are jaw-dropping vistas to appreciate.  

The beautiful landscapes of the Italian and Rose Gardens provide tons of photo opportunities in themselves. While these are side by side, they have completely different vibes to them. The Italian Garden is manicured and formal with designated seating areas at the corners of the garden. The Rose Garden has almost a dilapidated feel to it, but this is part of the design. Both are beautiful. 

On my last visit, I came across pivot rock.  What looks like a regular boulder in the middle of the trail, is actually a trick that the Cranes installed to impress their friends. While the rock seems harder to move than I thought, I was able to use my legs and push really hard to get it to move a little bit in each direction. 

One of the farms that you pass on the way to Crane Beach is Russell Orchards.  Russell Orchards offer u-pick produce, a great farm stand with both vegetables & fruit, as well as processed goods like jams, baked goods, and syrups, an ice cream counter, and a winery.   It makes for a nice stop after the beach to pick up some snacks and fresh produce to take home. 

Another farm in town, which I have visited in the area is Appleton Farms. Run by the Trustees of the Reservation, Appleton Farms sits on 650 acres of land and includes over six miles of trails that loop around the field and through the woods of the property. In the winter, this is a popular cross-country skiing area – something I tried for the first, and probably last time here. Looking at their website, it seems that they also have a farm stand and barnyard, so I will have to make sure to check that part of the farm out on my next visit.

Downtown Ipswich has a handful of local shops, eateries, and breweries including the eponymous Ipswich Ale Brewery. The town was built up around the Ipswich River so to get a glimpse into its history, don’t miss the short but scenic Sidney Shurcliff Riverwalk. The walk begins with a large mural that outlines the history of Ipswich. From here, it crosses the river giving a view of the waterfall and Choate bridge before making its way to the riverbanks for .25 miles. Along the way remnants of the mill industry in the area are still visible.