I feel like when I was a kid, Chatham was the only place I wanted to go on Cape Cod. I think because it is at the elbow of the Cape, it stuck out as the center of Cape life.  Also, I remember fondly the candy and ice cream stores on Main Street. Many decades later the coastal beauty and lively main street still draw summer visitors to Chatham.

I started the morning with a walk at the Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge. Situated at the very tip of the Cape “elbow”, the 7,604 acre preserve on Morris Island offers views of Chatham Harbor, Stage Harbor, and Chatham Roads.  Because of beach erosion, the center has had to tear down a lot of their beachside infrastructure. Right now there is just a small shack serving as the visitor center in the small parking lot (holds about 10 cars); however, the volunteer working the shack said they’re working on opening a more formal visitor center on Main Street soon. I hope that they keep this booth available because it was nice to get a quick lay of the land and learn about the many species of birds we could possibly see during our walk. 

Since the beach erosion has destroyed one of their walking paths, you have to walk through the neighborhood to access the new trailhead.  After walking down a hill and through a small forest, the marshlands, dunes, and coastal paths opened up in front of me.  The path is soft sand, so I would suggest wearing sport sandals instead of sneakers. The walk to The Half Moon is 1.5 miles one way; however, I found that at one point the path was too overgrown with poison ivy for me to continue. Instead, I made my way down to the beach, took off my shoes, and walked back toward the visitor center in the shallows.  

Along the coastline, I watched horseshoe crabs troll the shallows, listened to shore birds calling to each other, and came across my first ever Moon Snail.  I don’t know if it was because I went early enough in the day or because of the on and off rain showers, but I pretty much had the beach to myself.

From here, I drove over to the Chatham Lighthouse. Built in 1808 as one of a pair –  hence its local name “Twin Light” – this lighthouse was moved from its original location in 1877 to prevent it falling into the sea.This is one of only 16 remaining lighthouses on the Cape. During the summer, they offer tours of the lighthouse on Wednesdays.  

Parked in the front lawn of the lighthouse is a Coast Guard Lifeboat.  Motor Lifeboat CG44301 was the first of its kind. The 44 foot steel-hulled boat replaced the previous wooden-hulled version in 1963. 

Both the lighthouse and the lifeboat are reminders of the dangers of the sea.  Between 1850 and 1980, over 3,500 boats lost their fight against the rugged shoreline of the Cape. The 50-mile stretch between Chatham and Provincetown has been nicknamed the “Graveyard of the Atlantic”. As recently as 2021, scientists are still finding new artifacts from shipwrecks in these waters. 

While not an actual ship skeleton, the “Ship Skeleton off Cape Cod” sculpture made of driftwood and other washed-up objects reminds people of the power of the sea.  The point is about a third of a mile walk down South Beach from the lighthouse. In the dunes above the sculpture is a remnant of a washed up shack that has been decorated and reinforced by Occupy Chatham. Over the last ten years, people have added their own flotsam to this living beach sculpture to make it an interesting collection of everyday artifacts.  

My original plan for lunch was to grab a bite at the Chatham Town Pier; however, as the rain came in, and I found out they have no indoor seating, I had to change my plans. Still, before leaving the pier, I made sure to take in the views from the deck of fishermen actively working to bring in fresh catch. If this is where the fish for the Chatham Pier Fish Market comes from, it can’t get any more fresh than this. 

Instead, I headed over Main Street. After finding parking – it’s not the easiest feat – I found a cozy restaurant for lunch. With my stomach full, I was now ready to browse the fun collection of stores along the mile long stretch of Chatham’s downtown.  The Candy Manor from my childhood is still there, and the new Ducks in the Window store, full of rubber ducks of all sizes and decoration, has been added to pique a child’s interest. Main Street also offers upscale boutiques, classic beach shops, beautiful art galleries, funky antique stores, and the requisite tourist shops for the rest of the family. 

In the center of Main Street is Kate Gould Park where the Chatham Chamber of Commerce holds their annual Art in the Park. From June 18th to August 15th, a collection of locally painted/decorated whales, sharks, and oars are displayed for the public.  Each piece showcases the beauty of Chatham and the cultural relevance of the area.  All are available for purchase via an online auction; all proceeds from the auctions go back to the town. 

Just outside of Main Street is the Godfrey Windmill. Built in 1797, but moved to this location in 1955, the Godfrey Windmill is one of only two original windmills from the 1800s.  While I’ve seen many windmills in my travels, this is the first that I have been able to tour. The windmill is open for tours Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays during the summer and operates as a corn mill a few times a year. The volunteer guides and millers were eager to share their knowledge of the history, structure, and operations of the gristmill.  

Behind the windmill, my final stop for the day was a chance for me to meditate and take some time to myself. The Chatham Labyrinth has been designed to replicate the 11 circuit medieval labyrinth found in the floor at Chartres Cathedral in France.  Made up of smooth paving stones in two colors, I found that I had to concentrate a little more to stay on the designated path, but the curved design at the center was a beautiful ending point to the calming walk. You know I love a good labyrinth.