People come from all over to hike the breathtaking landscape of the Dolomites, and now having experienced it myself – even in the pouring rain – I can see why.
While I’m used to having to hike a fair distance to see views, the roads and cable cars in these mountains make views accessible to all hiking abilities. However, that doesn’t mean that there isn’t difficulty in the hikes. The altitude makes it harder to breathe and the staggering drops on the side of the trails keeps the body on alert. There are all levels of difficulty in the mountains – from casual walks through meadows to rock climbing up the mountain cliffs. We stuck to the hikes that were doable for the majority of people.
Our first hike was the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo. While people were here to see the impressive height of the three limestone obelisks of Cima Grande, West Summit, and Cima Piccola, the fog and rain during our hike covered the main attraction for most of the hike. However, I found the views of the surrounding mountains and valleys to be just as beautiful. I also enjoyed hiking through the fog, but only because I knew that the path was wide enough that I wasn’t in danger of falling off the edge.
One of my favorite parts of the Tre Cime hike was our lunch at Locatelli Refugio While I’m used to a swished sandwich and some fruit at the top of a mountain, here I was able to order a real restaurant meal, and because it was a rainy day, I went for the Tyrolean barley soup, which warmed me from the inside out. If you plan to hike and eat along these mountains, be sure to bring cash for bathrooms, meals, and drinks. Also, if you want to drive up to the parking lot, you have to make a reservation; however, there is also a shuttle bus that will bring you up from the base of the mountain. While it was a struggle to wait for the shuttle back down in the pouring rain, it would’ve also been precarious to drive up and down these narrow and winding mountain roads with little to no visibility.
Our second hike at the Falzarego Pass wasn’t as busy as Tre Cime but was visually interesting in its own way. We parked along the loop and then walked about ¾ mile to the Lagazuoi cable car. This took us up to the peak of Mount Lagazuoi where we then made our way back down the mountain. Near the summit is the Lagazuoi Open-Air Museum: a collection of old World War I tunnels, trenches, and machine gun posts used by the Austrian front to defend the land against the Italians. In the midst of another foggy day, it was cool to explore these historic sites when we couldn’t see any views.
The hike down the narrow slippery rocky switchbacks was more precarious than the wider paths of the Tre Cime hike, and I wish that I had hiking poles like most of the other hikers we encountered. However, after the initial rocky descent, the trail meandered through wider and easier footing.
Lucky for us the skies cleared at times giving us views through the valley and across to the other mountains. While the majority of the hike was downhill – great for the lungs, rough on the knees – there was an unexpected uphill climb about ⅔ of the way through.
After each hike, we checked out a nearby mountain town. The first day we stopped by Cortina d’Ampezzo: a well established tourist destination for the well to do. The town and its surrounding mountain roads have been popular with authors (Ernest Hemingway, Goffredo Parise, and Amelia Edwards) and films (James Bond For Your Eyes Only, Cliffhanger, and The Pink Panther). After walking through the main shopping area with its cobblestone walkways, views of the mountains, and stately churches, I can see the draw of this picturesque mountain resort town. The town is currently preparing to host the 2026 Winter Olympics, so it will be ready for an even bigger crowd in the near future.
The second day we stopped in Auronzo di Cador, which sits in the valley along Santa Caterina lake. Besides being the hub of the Auronzo area, it is also an access point for Mount Agudo. During the winter, this is a popular ski resort, and in the summer they use the chair lift to bring people up to the summit and to the start of the Fun Bob mountain coaster. The center of the town offers a good selection of shops and eateries along narrow streets. While it’s not as refined as Cortina, I appreciated the local artisan and clothing stores.
A quick shout out to the tiny mountain town where we stayed. Pozzale at first feels like a town that is on the decline; however, there is a local vibrancy here that made it come alive for me. The town offers one bakery, bar, grocery store, and restaurant. While many of the buildings have seen better days, the town has come together to create a photo walk around town, which highlights the history and culture of these mountain people. There is a water fountain on each side of the main square that provides fresh cold water. The breads and pastries at the bakery are baked fresh everyday, and even though they officially close midday, if the owner is sitting outside, you’ll be able to pick up a small snack. Residents hang out in their front yards saying hello to people passing by. People hang out at the bar all day, sipping espressos in the morning and beer in the evenings. Friday nights the bar hosts live music or karaoke.
Mac On the Map 
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