Killarney is the home of the Killarney National Park and embraces the natural beauty of the country, which is one of the reasons I was most excited to visit Ireland. 

My first day in Killarney was dedicated to the Gap of Dunloe tour. While the logistics of my Gap of Dunloe tour weren’t the best, the experience was worth it. The tour started at the Killarney National Park on Killarney lake. From here the small boat – holding about 8 people – crossed the upper lake, where we took in the great views of Ross Castle and the surrounding mountains before traveling down the river and through the interconnected middle and lower Killarney lakes. 

During the hour-long boat ride, the driver talked about the history and topography of the area.  He also was happy to answer any questions we had.  If the water levels are high enough, you’ll get to ride the rapids at the Meeting of Waters under Old Weir Bridge, but because the water levels were too low, we actually had to get out of the boat and walk across a small island while the driver navigated the rapids alone. While it was a little odd, it was also nice to see the river from the land. 

The boat ride ends at Lord Brandon’s cottage, which offers a small cafeteria style restaurant. At this point, I could’ve either ridden a jaunting car (horse and cart) or hiked through the Gap of Dunloe. I opted to hike the 7 miles. It started with a steady incline up to the Head of Dunloe. The grazing sheep, green pastures, quaint cottages, and mountain views easily distracted me from the uphill climb.  

At the Head of Dunloe, the views through the gap between the MacGillycuddy Reeks and Purple Mountain ranges were breathtaking. Below was also one of the glacier lakes that the rest of the walk paralleled. It was hard not to keep stopping and taking a break – not because I was tired – because the views were so spectacular. The hike ends at Kate Kearney’s Cottage, a small pub that offers food, drinks, and live music. This was where the bus took us back to the center of Killarney. 

While I had seen Ross Castle from the water during my trip to the Gap of Dunloe, I wanted to make sure to go back and see it up close.  Irish chieftain O’Donoghue Mor built this castle in the fifteenth century.  Irish lore swirls about it – as a place of good fortune and solid defense.  The substantial stone structure with narrow steep staircases, tiny window openings, and grand walls feels like a place that can hold up against an attack. 

My second day in Killarney allowed me to explore the city center. I started at the beautiful Killarney House and Gardens. Built in the early 18th century by the Earls of Kenmare, the Killarney House and Gardens once served as the stable block for the first Kenmare house, but now serves as the Killarney National Park Visitor Center. The Visitor Center offers 15 rooms of interactive exhibits about the history and natural elements of the area.  But even with the interesting photographs and information, it was hard not to look out the windows at the grounds below. 

The long, well manicured lawn is bordered by colorful flowers and trees. The bright green grass contrasts with the blue grey of the McGillycuddy Reeks in the distance.  From the Killarney House I walked the 5 km (3 mile) Circular Walk of Knockreer. The walk took me through the gardens, down to the River Deenagh, over to the Knockneer House, which was the original site of the Killarney house, and to the Deenagh Lodge Tearoom. The Deenagh Lodge Tearoom is a quaint country house turned into a small cafe serving snacks and drinks. After a respite here, I was drawn to the site of the beautiful church just outside the park grounds.

Across Kings Bridge, St. Mary’s Cathedral dominates the landscape. Built in the mid 1800s, this gothic style church feels grand inside. The towering stone arches frame tall stained glass windows and ornate chandeliers.  

After taking in the peacefulness of the gardens and church, I was ready to enjoy some shopping, food, and music in Killarney’s city center. The main street is flanked with a mixture of tourist and local shops. The historic Old Milk Market Lane, which still features some of the old warehouse buildings, has turned into a hotspot for the nighttime scene with outdoor seating set up outside all of the pubs and restaurants.

As the afternoon turned to evening, I could hear live music emanating from several of the pubs.  While usually I turn in early during my trips, I couldn’t help but stay out to partake in the classic Irish pub experience. My evening was filled with lively dancing and singing along with a three piece band swished into the corner of a pub – a perfect Irish night.