Day 4: São Pedro de Rates to Barcelos

Today felt different from the onset. As soon as I was sent in the right direction, I didn’t have to worry about finding my way. Yellow arrows and Camino signs reassured me and signs of pilgrims who have come before spoke of the history of the walk. 

Instead I could focus on taking in the surroundings through my senses. The smells of the countryside: farm animals, flowers, fruit trees and – later in the walk – the savory smells of grilled meats. 

The sounds of civilization: dogs barking behind gates, cars rumbling on the cobblestones, the swoosh of my rain gear, and cocks crowing throughout the day. 

The cool of the drizzle, warmth of the tiny glints of sunlight through the clouds, and reminder of rough and titled cobblestones under the feet.

I expected to find more pilgrims on the path, and more importantly some of the people I connected with yesterday, but I ended up walking alone. While I passed others, there was this feeling of taking our own paths for the day, so I kept going. Instead I listened to an audiobook and enjoyed the picturesque rural views.

About halfway there was a chance to take a detour up a hill to a church & lookout. While I started up the hill, I soon decided that I would rather save my energy for Barcelos (my end point for the day) since I heard it had more to offer than the last town I was in. 

So I kept chuggling along. I decided on my place for lunch – close to the end – and continued to enjoy the well designed houses & gardens, small tile work details, and views of the countryside. 

With another hearty pilgrim lunch in my belly, I walked around the cute town of Barcelos before heading to my lodging for a short nap, shower, and relaxing few hours. Just when I decided to head out for the evening walk & dinner, it started to rain, so instead of finding dinner out, I grabbed some ingredients at the local supermarket & made dinner back at the place. Where I got to dine with some fellow pilgrims – 2 women from Northern Ireland, a woman from the Netherlands, and a local Portuguese man. It was a little strange to have someone from Portugal here. He actually walked from his house today. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised – Americans walk the AT for instance, but he was the 1st I had met on the journey.

Day 5: Barcelos to Vitorino dos Piães

Well, I got my people today, but what one asks for might not actually be what one wants. I did get to walk about 1/3 of the walk by myself where I was able to finish my audio book & enjoy the beginning of the countryside immersed in the rain. I’m happy I got to use my rain gear, but I also hope that I don’t have a full day of rain in my future. An hour or so of it was enough. 

Soon, I ran into the American woman from yesterday who rubbed me the wrong way & was sure that I was doomed. Luckily, I was able to avoid walking with her; instead, I started walking with this Colombian family: a father & 2 sons. While talking with them wasn’t always easy because of the language barrier, it was a nice balance of walking & talking. Since we were back and forth with each other, at some point I lost them, and the rest of the day went downhill. 

First, I decided to stop on this wall & take a break. Right away my phone fell out of my pocket over the wall into the overgrown brush below. I could hear the sound of water flowing, so I assumed that there was also a stream running below all the plants, but I had no other option than to go into the unknown to try to recover my phone. So I found my way over a gate, plowed through the tall plants & thorns to the area where I thought my phone was. Searching around, at 1st I couldn’t find it, and I just hoped that the Colombian men would catch up, see my bag, and offer to help. I figured I could have them call my phone so I could at least hear where it landed.  But I luckily I found it before they arrived, dangling from a nearby thorn – I am so thankful for the cord I attached to it. So I made it back to the street & my bag, dirty and wet, but happy to have my phone back in hand.  My new light colored trail runners would now speak to my experiences.  

Just when I arrived back on the road, an Austrian woman came up & we walked the rest of the day together. She was a lovely woman; however, she was a talker, so it was hard to enjoy the peacefulness of the countryside. 

I’m working on finding the right balance between making social connections and environmental connections.  I want to take in all that the journey has to offer – both with relationships and quiet time. In the quiet space I have time to think, appreciate the countryside, and reflect on the process of long distance walking. In social time, I have time to learn about other people’s journeys, experiences, and cultures. Both are important, but for me, they can’t be experienced simultaneously. 

The rain of the morning made everything come alive – vineyards, small farms, flowers. I felt lucky to be surrounded by it all. My lodging was in the heart of this beautiful countryside, so after a shower, sitting in the comfortable chairs looking over the vineyard & relaxing with a book in the hammock was my rest for the day. 

The evening was spent around the table with other pilgrims enjoying a meal and wine – olive oil, wine, & chicken straight from the land we were occupying! After dinner these UK friends led some of us in a hilarious yoga session where everyone – both young and old – groaned in relief as our bodies took in a much needed stretch. I finished with a little quiet time at the communal puzzle. It was a pretty perfect Camino evening. 

Day 6: Vitorino dos Piães to Ponte de Lima

As worried as I was about having to spend the day talking, I was able to have a quick chat with one of the groups at the local cafe before continuing the journey solo. The morning drizzle soon abated leaving shiny leaves, running streams, and chirping birds. Framed by calla lilies and angel trumpets, spring surrounded me. 

With a short journey ahead – I think the shortest so far – I paused to take pictures and capture moments in my head. While other individuals passed, it seemed like we were all of the same mindset – we wanted a quiet introspective walk. 

Just when I was ready for some social time, I ran into 2 Australian women who I have been keeping step in step with but haven’t yet had the chance to walk with. They have been lovely to get to know outside of walking, and I knew they would be relaxing enough to walk with, and they were. They are just as into the flora, fauna & architecture of the area as I am, so there were lots of photo breaks along the way.

We stopped for a snack at a sweet cafe & found my first church (chapel actually) stamp of the Camino. The rest of the walk was talking, taking pictures, and enjoying the walk.  I even got to learn about farming culture and comparing work life between Australia & the US as we did. 

We walked along the river to Ponte de Limam, and the old arch bridge and beautiful architecture of the town came into view little by little. The artfully designed stone path is under a canopy of arched trees and passes an old church on its way. Ponte de Lima exudes historic charm, luckily since this would be my rest day for the Camino. 

I enjoyed the next day catching up on travel planning, writing, cooking, and laundry.  Don’t worry, I made sure to take breaks to walk around the town & fully appreciate the specialty stores, monuments, hidden courtyards, and local history of the town. The tourist center even has a booklet that took me on a walk past notable houses and monuments.