Even though the city is vast, because of the lack of skyscrapers and the multitude of plazas, canals, and parks, Copenhagen doesn’t exhaust me like other cities do. I feel like I can breathe and enjoy wandering without feeling overwhelmed. The focus on sustainability – with green design, bike & public transportation infrastructure, and recycling – adds to the city’s vitality.
My plan was to start my day going on a troll hunt, so I got off the metro at Christianshavn. However, before I found the troll, I decided to take a detour to complete an activity that I wasn’t able to do last time I was in the city. Our Savoir’s Church is easily recognizable for its spiral staircase encircling the outside of its baroque spire. I wanted to climb the spire back in the day, but the weather never cooperated with me. So, when I saw people were at the top, I knew I had to take this opportunity to finally check it out.
While the church was built in 1695, the spire and its staircase was not built until 1752. Architect Lauritz de Thurah designed the spire in the same baroque style as the St’Ivo alla Sapienza chapel in Rome; however, because he built it in oak instead of sandstone, he was able to extend the height to 90 meters. Also because it is built in oak, it has a tendency to sway in the wind – hence why it is closed in high winds.
In order to take on the challenge, you have to be ready to climb 400 stairs – 150 of them are in the open air – and be willing to face great heights with only a chest high railing as protection. On the climb up to the top, I saw several people holding onto the spire for dear life and others deciding to turn around pretty soon after starting the open air section.
The view from the spire extends out in all directions. I could see straight to the harbor and sea and into the center of the city. It was a nice introduction to all the city had to offer.
While the church itself was closed during my visit, I was lucky enough to hear the playing of the church’s famous carillon as I walked up the stairs. Organist P.S. Rung-Keller equipped the church with the 48 bronze bell carillon in 1928, which plays a different hymn every hour.
After safely putting my feet back on solid ground, it was time to get back to my troll hunt. Since 2014, Danish artist Thomas Dambo has been creating large troll sculptures made from recycled material. As a Danish sculptor, his oldest ones are in the Copenhagen area. However, since then, he has started expanding his troll hunt worldwide, and I’ve found two of his Rhode Island ones a few years ago. His trolls tend to be a little off the beaten path, so while I would’ve loved to hunt for more, I only had time to visit Green George in Christiania. The message written behind Green George’s sculpture, “The World is in Our Hands” mirrors Denmark’s environmental philosophy.
I’ve been hesitant to come back to Freetown Christiania because I’ve heard that it has become seedier over the years; however, I felt the opposite. Started as an anarchist community in an old army barracks in 1971, Christiania is a self-governing, self-sustaining community. The laws of Christiania are different from the rest of Denmark, and the people are too. While there are parts of the area that are a little ramshackle, the main streets are clean and colorful. Large scale murals decorate many of the building facades and art studios, cafes, and stores welcome people in. Back in the day, no photography was allowed anywhere in Christiania, and this rule still applies to much of the community. However, specific areas (look for the signs) are now open to photography. Make sure to respect people’s wishes for when you need to put the phone/camera away.
Transportation Info
I was staying in Malmo, Sweden during this visit. The Swedish Skånetrafiken app offers one way or 24 hour tickets for whatever area you’re traveling in. I was happy to learn that the 24 hour ticket is the same price as two one way tickets, and has the added benefit of including any public transportation in the designated area. This means that I could use one 24 ticket for the buses around Malmo, train to/from Copenhagen, the Copenhagen metro system, busses around Copenhagen, and the public ferry (I’m a little sad that I didn’t take advantage of this perk).
After walking around the village and canals of Christiania, I hopped on a bus to Reffen Market. Set in an old shipyard, Reffen market is both the largest street food market in the Nordics and a lively event space. Graffitied walls, colorful container spaces, upcycled vans, various themed seating areas, a playground, and views of the canal offer a unique dining space. During the afternoons, the place is a relaxing food hall. At night, the place becomes a dance club. Food from all sides of the world are on offer as well as a few bars serving local beers (including their own in-house brewery) and wines.
Getting to CopenHill took another bus and a bit of a walk, but I was intrigued by this multipurpose concept, and since I was already in the area felt like I had to go see what it was all about. Built atop a power plant is a year round ski slope and rockclimbing wall. Riders can choose from the freestyle park at the base of the building or make their way halfway up via the magic carpet or all the way to the top via the elevator. At the top is also a bar, viewing platform and sitting area for those who want to just take in the views. The ride up the elevator is free and the top offers great views of the surrounding areas. I’ve never seen a year round slope, so watching the people ski down the Neveplast (green plastic) terrain in the middle of a lovely spring day was neat.
GreenKayaks started in Copenhagen in 2017. Their mission is to free the waters of plastic and other waste. To do so, they offer free kayaks for people to use with the understanding that you will pick up trash in the waters during your paddle. Since their launch, they have expanded to over 75 sites across several different countries. While I didn’t find out about this opportunity in time to book a kayak here, I am excited to try it out in the future. You do need to book it online in advance – I tried walking by their site to see if I could get one on the fly, but it ends up that the location on Google maps is just their office, not a rental site. I did see some kayakers in action as I walked along the city, so I’m happy that their mission is working.
Based on my June 2026 trip.
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