The
journey
is the Goal

Walled in Wonders in Toruń, Poland

Toruń is a small walled city that luckily escaped much of the World War II damage; thus, while cities like Gdańsk have been rebuilt in their historic style, Toruń’s buildings are mostly original.  

The medieval wall encircling the city allows one to wander without getting lost, and I enjoyed finding small cafes, murals, unique architecture, and surprise ceramic sculptures as I explored the side streets of the city.

Once I found a few ceramic sculptures – usually perched on window sills – I soon was on a treasure hunt for more, and as I looked, I also found a small metal angel statue with a QR code. Scanning this, I learned that just like Gdansk’s lion statues, Toruń houses a collection of angel statues. Because of their diminutive size, they are not something that everyone notices, so I found it fun to spend some time searching for them. 

As I wandered the city, I came across one massive church after another. Each contained beautiful elements inside. From the almost art museum collection of baroque and rococo altars of St. Jacob’s Church, to the baroque organ of the Church of the Holy Spirit and the layered altar of the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, there was so much to discover in each one.  

At one edge of the old town are the ruins of the 13th century castle. Once the home of the 12 order knights of the Teutonic Order, after the residents of Torun staged a successful rebellion in 1454, they tore most of the castle down.  While you can pay to see the whole area up close, there is also a fair amount you can just check out just by walking around.  Sunken near the ruins is a football pitch and spectators find a vantage point above the pitch to cheer on the players. 

At the other end of the old town is the unusual leaning tower of Toruń.  According to legend, the red brick tower was built at an angle by a Teutonic king as a symbol of his deviation from the monastic rule of the Order.  It is said that only those who are pure of heart can maintain balance under the tower. 

Following the wall from here, I noticed a beautiful Neo Renaissance style building that stood out.  I found out that this is the home to the Collegium Maximum museum run by the University of Toruń. The staircase leading up to the first floor exhibits a bold collection of paintings that I found as impressive as the artwork inside the exhibition.  The museum hosts a collection of medieval coins in one room – each set next to books and illustrations from the same time. Since all of the information for this exhibit was in Polish, I wasn’t able to garner a lot about them.  

In the next set of rooms were a series of paintings from the 20th and 21st century of Polish artists. I took the staircase to the next level, but was greeted with a “Staff Only” sign, so I’m not sure if this area is ever open to the public or not.  While the museum was small, it was also free, and I enjoyed getting a glimpse at different painters’ works.

Toruń is best known as the childhood home of Copernicus.  Born in 1473, Nicolaus Copernicus experienced the medieval lifestyle of the city.  The gothic house that he was born in has been turned into a museum that is as much about life during this time period as it is about him.  There aren’t many authentic artifacts in the museum, but it does delve into other scientists and their discoveries, the role of science in people’s lives, and the living conditions at the time. The museum is free on Thursdays. 

Toruń is also known for their gingerbread. They have two museums showcasing this history, workshops where you can learn how to make your own, and stores that sell the finished product.  Even the local brewery has gingerbread beer. This is what I decided to give a try.  Housed in a 15th century tenement house, the Jan Olbracht Browar Staromiejski has been around since 2012 and has brewed an assortment of beers.  They offer a tasting flight that includes their gingerbread beer in the line up.  As anticipated – since I’m not a gingerbread fan – the beer wasn’t my favorite, but I did enjoy partaking in the local delicacy. 

Just outside the old town is the Vistula river. Grabbing a drink or snack at one of the three floating barges was a nice way to spend an hour relaxing.  On one night of my stay there was even a live band playing just off the river that provided lovely background music as well.

Based on my June 2026 visit


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