The
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Traveling to the Birthplace of Portugal: Guimarães

When I found out that the birthplace of Portugal was located just over an hour from Porto by train or bus, I knew I had to add it into my itinerary.  In the 12th century Guimarães was the first capital of Portugal. Since then it has maintained its medieval urban layout and architectural style.  Most recently it was named European’s Green Capital for 2026. 

Because the train station is about a 10 minute walk from the historic center of the city, my initial impression of the city wasn’t all that great, but when I was greeted by the Aqui Nasceu Portugal (Here Portugal was Born) neon sign decorating the Alfândegas tower – part of the original medieval defensive wall –  I knew my impression was going to change. 

I started with a visit to the Couros Zone. Starting in the Middle Ages, Guimarães had a booming tanning industry.  It remained active until the mid 20th century as the backbone to local footwear factories; the large granite dyeing tanks and nearby processing buildings still remain today. 

The Medieval old city is centered around two spacious courtyards. The first, Largo da Oliveira (Olive tree Square) is named after a centuries old olive tree that was sadly removed in 1870; however, a new one was planted in the same location in 1985 to bring its namesake back to the square.  In the center of the square is the Salado Monument honoring the 1340 Battle of Salado where Spain & Portugal’s united forces defeated the invading Moors. At one end is the 12th century gothic Church of Nossa Senhora de Oliveira. 

Cafes line the sides of the courtyard with open air seating creating a lively and picturesque atmosphere.  

Connected through an archway is Praca de Sao Tiago (Saint James Square).  Both of these squares are flanked by historically accurate architecture boasting wrought-iron balconies and not so straight walls.  Colorful flower boxes and laundry hung out to dry completes the charming imagery. 

I took a quick look into Guimarães Project Room – a small contemporary art gallery housed in one of the historic buildings in Saint James Square. During my visit they were showcasing an exhibit highlighting materials and culture.

From here I walked along one of the first streets laid out in the city: Saint Mary’s Street. Built as a link between the convent and castle of Guimarães, it once housed local nobility and clergymen. The 17th century cobble stone street makes its way under the Casa do Arco and alongside the Convent of Santa Clara before ending just below the castle at Jardim do Carmo.  

While I didn’t go inside the castle or the neighboring Paço dos Duques de Bragança, I took some time to walk the grounds of Colina Sagrada (the Sacred Hill) and I stopped at the small Church of São Miguel do Castelo.  This granite Romanesque chapel is said to be the baptismal site of Portugal’s first king, Dom Afonso Henriques. It also features a floor of grave stones where noble warriors were honored in burial. 

From here, I walked down the wisteria covered path to the Condessa Mumadona Dias monument & Palace of Justice. 

Just beyond this is the entrance to the castle walls walk. Only a small part of the original 12th century castle walls are still standing, and this brief stretch lines Avenida Alberto Sampaio. Besides the novelty of walking the walls, it offers views of nearby Penha mountain.  Originally I was hoping to make my way up to the top of this mountain, but the cable car was closed during my visit, so I remained in the heart of the city for the day. 

The exit of the walls put me in view of the grand garden center of Largo de República do Brasil.  The geometric design of the flora and fountains serve as a beautiful foreground to the majestic Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Consolação e Santos Passos while the Penha mountain stands as the backdrop.  

While the baroque church with its neoclassical altar was lovely, I especially loved walking up its tower for an expansive view of the Jardin do Largo de República do Brasil with the historic city center behind it.  Looking at all that I got to see throughout the day was a nice way to end my visit. 

Based on my April 2026 visit


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